Glycolic Acid
Glycolic Acid
ALSO — AHA, HYDROXYACETIC ACID
Removes the layer that is scattering light. Immediate optical payoff, real irritation ceiling.
WHERE WE SIT IN THE PUBLISHED RANGE4% ——— 12%
8%
We compound toward the middle of the published range, not the top of it. Past the point where the dose–response curve flattens, the extra percent buys irritation and nothing else.
IDENTITY & RATINGSA
INCIGlycolic Acid
FAMILYAlpha hydroxy acid
MOL. WEIGHT76.05 g/mol
HOUSE CONC.8% w/w
pH WINDOW3.5 – 4
ACTS ATSTRATUM CORNEUM
DEPTH0 – 20 µm
ONSET2–4 WK
STABILITYSTABLE
TRIALS ON FILE3
IRRITATION INDEX5 / 10
▸ STRATUM CORNEUMEPIDERMISDERMIS
The shaded band is the depth this molecule is understood to reach. Anything below it is out of scope, whatever the label says.
01
Mechanism
EVIDENCE GRADE A
Smallest AHA by molecular weight, therefore the deepest-penetrating. Dissolves the desmosomal bonds holding dead corneocytes together; secondary dermal glycosaminoglycan increase at sustained use.
HOUSE NOTES
- Twice a week is the whole protocol. Every night is how people arrive at a damaged barrier believing they were being thorough.
- Photosensitising for roughly a week after use. Non-negotiable pairing with A-10.
02
Layering
CONFLICTS & PAIRINGS
DO NOT LAYER
PAIRS WITH
03
Compounded into
1 FORMULAS