Retinaldehyde
Retinal
ALSO — RETINAL, VITAMIN A ALDEHYDE
The strongest retinoid available without a prescription pad. Converts faster than retinol, irritates less than tretinoin.
We compound toward the middle of the published range, not the top of it. Past the point where the dose–response curve flattens, the extra percent buys irritation and nothing else.
The shaded band is the depth this molecule is understood to reach. Anything below it is out of scope, whatever the label says.
Mechanism
One oxidation step from retinoic acid. Binds nuclear RAR after conversion; upregulates procollagen I and III, accelerates keratinocyte turnover, downregulates MMP-1.
HOUSE NOTES
- Compounded in an airless pump. Any retinoid sold in a jar has been oxidising since it left the line.
- Retinisation — flaking, tightness, transient erythema — peaks around week 3. It is not an allergy. It is not a sign it is working, either.
- Do not layer over an acid on the same night. Alternate.
MEASURED ENDPOINTS
SUPPORTING RECORDS
Randomised, vehicle-controlled
N=112 · 12 WK · DOUBLE-BLIND
Randomised, vehicle-controlled
N=104 · 12 WK · DOUBLE-BLIND
Ex vivo skin explant
N=24 · 6 WK · N/A
Layering
- L-Ascorbic Acid
- Glycolic Acid
- Benzoyl Peroxide