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← ACTIVESRECORD A-01FAMILY RETINOID

Retinaldehyde

Retinal

ALSO — RETINAL, VITAMIN A ALDEHYDE

The strongest retinoid available without a prescription pad. Converts faster than retinol, irritates less than tretinoin.

WHERE WE SIT IN THE PUBLISHED RANGE0.03% ——— 0.2%
0.1%

We compound toward the middle of the published range, not the top of it. Past the point where the dose–response curve flattens, the extra percent buys irritation and nothing else.

IDENTITY & RATINGSA
INCIRetinal
FAMILYRetinoid
MOL. WEIGHT284.44 g/mol
HOUSE CONC.0.1% w/w
pH WINDOW5.3 – 5.7
ACTS ATDERMIS
DEPTH60 – 1800 µm
ONSET8–12 WK
STABILITYPHOTOLABILE — 4 H UV
TRIALS ON FILE4
IRRITATION INDEX4 / 10
STRATUM CORNEUMEPIDERMISDERMIS

The shaded band is the depth this molecule is understood to reach. Anything below it is out of scope, whatever the label says.

01

Mechanism

EVIDENCE GRADE A

One oxidation step from retinoic acid. Binds nuclear RAR after conversion; upregulates procollagen I and III, accelerates keratinocyte turnover, downregulates MMP-1.

HOUSE NOTES

  • Compounded in an airless pump. Any retinoid sold in a jar has been oxidising since it left the line.
  • Retinisation — flaking, tightness, transient erythema — peaks around week 3. It is not an allergy. It is not a sign it is working, either.
  • Do not layer over an acid on the same night. Alternate.

MEASURED ENDPOINTS

Periorbital wrinkle depth-31%
12 WKREF-01
Skin roughness (Ra)-26%
12 WKREF-13
Procollagen I expression+46%
6 WKREF-07

SUPPORTING RECORDS

  • Randomised, vehicle-controlled

    N=112 · 12 WK · DOUBLE-BLIND

  • Randomised, vehicle-controlled

    N=104 · 12 WK · DOUBLE-BLIND

  • Ex vivo skin explant

    N=24 · 6 WK · N/A

02

Layering

CONFLICTS & PAIRINGS
DO NOT LAYER
03

Compounded into

1 FORMULAS
SPECIMEN MONOGRAPH. FIGURES AND RECORDS ARE ILLUSTRATIVE PLACEHOLDERS AND CITE NO REAL STUDY, AUTHOR OR JOURNAL. NOT MEDICAL ADVICE.
DEPTH 000%SEC