Azelaic Acid
Azelaic Acid
ALSO — NONANEDIOIC ACID
Treats redness, post-inflammatory pigment and breakouts at once. Almost nothing else does all three.
We compound toward the middle of the published range, not the top of it. Past the point where the dose–response curve flattens, the extra percent buys irritation and nothing else.
The shaded band is the depth this molecule is understood to reach. Anything below it is out of scope, whatever the label says.
Mechanism
Competitive tyrosinase inhibitor with selectivity for hyperactive melanocytes. Antibacterial against C. acnes, normalises follicular keratinisation, scavenges reactive oxygen species.
HOUSE NOTES
- Selectivity matters: it leaves normal melanocytes alone, so it does not lighten skin overall.
- Grainy texture at 10% is the acid, not a defect. It dissolves on contact.
MEASURED ENDPOINTS
SUPPORTING RECORDS
Split-face, vehicle-controlled
N=72 · 12 WK · INVESTIGATOR-BLIND
Randomised, vehicle-controlled
N=88 · 12 WK · DOUBLE-BLIND
In vitro enzymatic assay
N=12 · N/A · N/A
Layering
No known conflicts. This one goes next to anything in the formulary, in any order, on any night.